Post by BudgiesBuddy on Jun 4, 2012 14:55:55 GMT
Hand feeding baby budgies is time consuming, tiring and difficult. Therefore it should only be done in severe, serious, or desperate situations. It is better to get an on hand experience with a seasoned breeder or an avian vet. Some people do it to tame the chicks. This can be achieved by handling the chicks from the nest box twice every day for 10 to 15 minutes. Start handling the chicks when they are 10 days old. Always make sure that the hands are clean and odor free. However for fully hand feeding, the chicks should be taken from parents at 21 days old.
There is a difference between properly hand feeding and just hand feeding. There are also two types of hand feeding. One is when the mother has more number of chicks and she is finding it hard to feed all the chicks. In this case elder chicks can be taken away once or twice daily and placed back in the nest box after a quick feeding. This will help the hen to concentrate on younger chicks. The second one is when hen doesn’t feed a chick for some reason and there is no other nest box to foster the chick. In this case the chick is taken away and kept in a brooder or nursery box with nest box like darkness and temperature and hand fed every 4 hours. The brooder or nursery box should be lined with wood shavings or paper towels to keep it dry and clean.
The gap between feeding increases as the chicks get older. I have had to get up in the middle of the nights to hand feed smaller chicks. One can also do the last feeding at 11 or 12 PM and the next one at early dawn so they don’t have to wait full eight hours before their morning feed. Four weeks old chicks should be provided with thick formula in a bowl so they start nibbling on it. Soon they will refuse the hand feeding and will go towards feeding bowl when they are hungry. The time is usually different with every chick. They should also be provided with small pieces of fruits, vegetables, hardboiled egg and soft seeds which can easily be cracked. I sometimes sprinkle some seeds or pellets on the formula in the bowl. They should be hand fed when they are encouraged to try new foods to avoid any starving. From 4 weeks old and onwards, they can be shifted to baby/nursery cages. You can tell when a chick is ready to be moved from brooder to baby cage when they are feathered and trying to come out of the brooder by climbing the walls. From 4 to 6 weeks of age, depending on the chicks, they will be eating and drinking on their own. Always make sure that you spot the chicks eating and drinking a few times a day on the same day. Only then they will be fully weaned. Here is my nursery cage.
Never force the food in chicks beaks. When they are hungry, they will move their heads repeatedly and make cute peeping sounds.
Depending on the chicks age, syringe, eyedropper or a bent spoon would be required. I use these and find these glass eyedropper easier to use for small chicks. These can also be boiled and disinfected easily between uses. It is hard to clean plastic syringes.
A bent spoon is better for elder chicks.
Two bowls would also be required. One smaller than the other so it can fit inside the other one. The smaller bowl will have mixed formula. The bigger bowl will have warm water to maintain the formula temperature and the smaller one will be kept in it. A temperature gauge would be required to measure the temperature of the mixed formula. The formula must be fed at the correct temperature. Formula temperature should be 104-106 degrees Fahrenheit. If the formula is too cool it will not digest properly. If the formula is too hot the chick's crop will burn. Both these issues are very serious and can result in chick’s death. I use these temperature gauges.
Hand feeding formula should be mixed fresh every feeding time. Follow the manufacturer's instruction. I usually add a tiny amount of probiotics and vitamin supplements in the formula. Of course a good hand feeding formula is required. I have not used British brands. Kaytee hand feeding formula is easily available everywhere but it had many problem over the years.
On the other hand Zupreem hand feeding formula is a better choice.
The chicks should be weighed every other day to make sure they are growing properly.
There is a difference between properly hand feeding and just hand feeding. There are also two types of hand feeding. One is when the mother has more number of chicks and she is finding it hard to feed all the chicks. In this case elder chicks can be taken away once or twice daily and placed back in the nest box after a quick feeding. This will help the hen to concentrate on younger chicks. The second one is when hen doesn’t feed a chick for some reason and there is no other nest box to foster the chick. In this case the chick is taken away and kept in a brooder or nursery box with nest box like darkness and temperature and hand fed every 4 hours. The brooder or nursery box should be lined with wood shavings or paper towels to keep it dry and clean.
The gap between feeding increases as the chicks get older. I have had to get up in the middle of the nights to hand feed smaller chicks. One can also do the last feeding at 11 or 12 PM and the next one at early dawn so they don’t have to wait full eight hours before their morning feed. Four weeks old chicks should be provided with thick formula in a bowl so they start nibbling on it. Soon they will refuse the hand feeding and will go towards feeding bowl when they are hungry. The time is usually different with every chick. They should also be provided with small pieces of fruits, vegetables, hardboiled egg and soft seeds which can easily be cracked. I sometimes sprinkle some seeds or pellets on the formula in the bowl. They should be hand fed when they are encouraged to try new foods to avoid any starving. From 4 weeks old and onwards, they can be shifted to baby/nursery cages. You can tell when a chick is ready to be moved from brooder to baby cage when they are feathered and trying to come out of the brooder by climbing the walls. From 4 to 6 weeks of age, depending on the chicks, they will be eating and drinking on their own. Always make sure that you spot the chicks eating and drinking a few times a day on the same day. Only then they will be fully weaned. Here is my nursery cage.
Never force the food in chicks beaks. When they are hungry, they will move their heads repeatedly and make cute peeping sounds.
Depending on the chicks age, syringe, eyedropper or a bent spoon would be required. I use these and find these glass eyedropper easier to use for small chicks. These can also be boiled and disinfected easily between uses. It is hard to clean plastic syringes.
A bent spoon is better for elder chicks.
Two bowls would also be required. One smaller than the other so it can fit inside the other one. The smaller bowl will have mixed formula. The bigger bowl will have warm water to maintain the formula temperature and the smaller one will be kept in it. A temperature gauge would be required to measure the temperature of the mixed formula. The formula must be fed at the correct temperature. Formula temperature should be 104-106 degrees Fahrenheit. If the formula is too cool it will not digest properly. If the formula is too hot the chick's crop will burn. Both these issues are very serious and can result in chick’s death. I use these temperature gauges.
Hand feeding formula should be mixed fresh every feeding time. Follow the manufacturer's instruction. I usually add a tiny amount of probiotics and vitamin supplements in the formula. Of course a good hand feeding formula is required. I have not used British brands. Kaytee hand feeding formula is easily available everywhere but it had many problem over the years.
On the other hand Zupreem hand feeding formula is a better choice.
The chicks should be weighed every other day to make sure they are growing properly.