Buying and Caring for Your First Budgie
Boy or Girl?
This time, we move on to where to buy and how to choose the bird. You may have seen pictures or friends’ birds and have in mind your particular “ideal” but have you considered the gender of the bird, and whether there are specific advantages in owning a male over a female, or vice versa? Can you tell the difference? This is where research as part of your preparation is really important. In young birds, the cere of a male is purple to blue, and the female’s is a whitish-blue that will usually darken to brown as she matures. (This may depend on her general colouration and genetic background.) In reality, both cocks and hens can be “tamed” to become excellent pets that will, with patience, step onto your finger, respond to you and your voice, and learn to “talk”. To keep it simple, I will refer to “him” throughout the rest of this piece.
How old should he be?
If you are hoping to train your budgie, you will want to ensure that you buy him at the right age. The optimum age would be between 8 and 10 weeks – less than this and they are not ready to leave the parents, and much more will put them beyond the age when they can regard you as the one to learn from.
Where to buy
Even the best-managed pet shops may not be able to determine the age of a bird, and of course they may hold “stock” for a number of weeks or even months. Also, by their very nature, pet shops do not specialise in budgies and may not be able to provide ideal environments and nutrition.
My suggestion would be to go to a budgerigar breeder. He, or she, will be a specialist and will know the history of his birds, including their age and who the parents are. Breeders often have budgies for sale to people who are looking for pets, and will usually be happy to share their wisdom. You will have an opportunity to see how the birds are being housed and get an overview of their appearance and behaviour, all of which will give you a good insight into their general well-being.
What to look for
Look at the cages or aviaries in which the birds are kept. Are they roomy enough to ensure the birds can exercise? Do you get the sense that they are hygienic and regularly cleaned? The birds themselves should be lively, fully-feathered and chirping loudly. Check that their feet are not encrusted with dried droppings, and look under their tails at the area known, in birds, as the vent, which should be clean, and show no wetness or discoloration.
The breeder may have a cage with a selection of birds for sale. You will be looking for a healthy eight week old bird that is complete in feather, (no bald patches that may point to self-plucking because of anxiety or boredom, or to some other health concern,) and showing a generally lively, alert demeanour. Take time and you may be attracted to some particular personality or appearance. Conscientious breeders generally will not let birds go if they are too young, but do check that the one you choose is over eight weeks old. If it isn’t quite yet, the breeder may agree to hold it for you until it is old enough.
Remember to ask
If you have decided to take one of his birds, ask the breeder what he feeds them on because you must feed the same diet initially. You will need to know what seed is used, if he offers soft food and which supplements, if any. Once a bird has an established feeding pattern any change in the type of food presented, or even a change in seed, can put the bird off feeding. If you intend to change his diet it is important to introduce new or different foods gradually, but while he is still young enough to adapt and accept changes. You may choose to use a widely available proprietary brand such as the well-trusted “Trill”, or a 50/50 mix of canary feed and mixed millets.
It is an investment to build a good relationship with the breeder because he is a source of information and advice. Why not check with him, before you leave, if he would agree to accept a call from you if you have any questions?
…..and the price?
The price you will pay may vary enormously from area to area and breeder to breeder, but as a general rule, a pet quality bird may cost between £10 and £25. A higher price does not necessarily imply a better bird, and if the price seems very low it does not necessarily mean there is something wrong with the bird, or that it is inferior in some way. If you have your heart set on a particular bird, or colour or gender, you probably want to decide beforehand what is the most you are willing to pay.
The Budgerigar Society holds a list of their members who will supply birds to the pet market. Check their website at;
www.budgerigarsociety.com/pet_budgerigar_breeders.
Bringing Home Baby
You have assessed, chosen and brought home your budgie, and his new home is ready for him. You have an appropriate cage, and you have placed it up off the floor in a secure area away from direct sunlight, heaters and air conditioners. You have furnished it with some natural wood perches, food and water in appropriate containers, and a few toys. There is more info on how to choose, position and furnish his cage in my article in the last edition.
Natural Wood Perches: CAUTION.
Last time we looked at some of the natural woods that are safe to use as perches but DO NOT use apricot, cherry, peach, prune, plum or nectarine because they contain cyanogenic glycosides which release highly toxic cyanide if eaten by the bird.
Do not handle the bird for the first seven days; let him settle into his new environment as he may be suffering a little stress with the house move. Move slowly when you are near his cage and when he feels settled he will let you know by showing himself to be alert, active and, literally, “chirpy”.
Keep an eye on his dishes and other feeders and remember that water that has become fouled by droppings can be one of the biggest budgie killers. Food dishes may appear still to be full because budgies remove the outer shell (husk) of their seed which then falls back into the seed pot. You should blow the husk off the top daily and ensure there is enough for his day’s needs.
Supplements for his Health
You should provide oyster shell grit as a valuable source of calcium.
Cuttlebone, (people often refer to it as cuttlefish,) which is available through pet food suppliers’ and in pet shops, not only provides calcium and other vital minerals, but will also be provide enjoyment for your bird and helps to keep his beak clean and at the right length.
Also good for his nibbling are iodised peck blocks are made with grits, seaweed extract, calcium, yeast vitamins, minerals and iodine.
Don’t feel tempted to offer vitamin supplements. Vitamins are dangerous if overdosed and can encourage bacterial growth. If you are using a good seed mix and following the other suggestions above, your bird will be getting a well-balanced, nourishing diet.
If you want to offer treats, millet spray is a budgie favourite. To make sure that the sprays are free from fungal spores that may cause illness, soak the millets overnight in a solution of F10SC. In the morning rinse them off thoroughly and make sure they have been air-dried before offering them to your bird.
Budgies are fond of many fruits and vegetables, including broccoli, grated carrots, corn on the cob, celery, diced apple and orange segments. You will notice what your bird likes best. Don’t overdo it and be extra careful about removing uneaten fruit and veg at the end of the day that may attract insects, or generate mould and bacterial growth.
Hygiene for Health
Water containers must be cleaned and changed daily, use Milton or Aviclens to clean out the water container. The ideal water containers are the small glass water bottles because the budgie soon finds the nozzle and these cannot be fouled by droppings. Similarly, food containers must also be scrupulously clean, especially if they have been on the floor of the budgie’s cage, (and therefore at risk of contamination from droppings,) or if they contained soft or perishable foods like fruit and veg.
